We are in Oakland Park, FL. Located right next to Fort Lauderdale, Florida.

We've been here since our start in July of 2007.

Our Address is:

941 NE 48 St
Oakland Park, FL 33334

 

Any ECU that did not receive an enhancement with performance software upgrade should easily pass the emissions test.

This process explains how to find and remove the EWS security systems in all BMW’s that use EWS 3. To remove EWS:

1. EWS box looks like a white box with a black connector and is located right under the steering column over to the left-hand side.
    
2. To get to this place under the steering, you have to loosen the black piece of plastic. The plastic is attached with the help of a few Phillip head screws which can be easily removed.
    
3. Once completely, removed look under the steering and you will see the EWS located right over the pedals to the left-hand side.
    
4. The EWS is held tight with two 10 millimeter knots that are very easy to disconnect by hand. It is recommended that you use a ratchet with an extension to easily release the knots.  
    

Important! Whenever we work on your engine computer, you always need to send it with one key and your EWS.

This process explains the concept of ECU programming because most people ask if they need to reprogram their car computer once they get it back from us. This commonly happens because their car dealer or mechanic told them that you cannot reprogram your computer without damaging the programming or the relationship to the security system or keys. The reprogramming concept:

1. All modern engine computers are tightly bound to the car with a VIN (Vehicle Identification Number).
    
2. Our advantage is that when we work on your car computer keep the car and VIN relationship intact together with the relationship of their ECU to the security system and the keys or remotes.
    
3. We aim to return everything to you in a 100% plug and play condition.  

 

This process explains the reasons why purchasing a used ECU a bad idea. Let’s take a look at the reasons:

1. This is common knowledge that a car has a system of computers that need to be programmed for the car to work properly and efficiently. When you buy an ECU set that belongs you are already damaging the ecosystem of the car.
    
2. An ECU comprises the engine computer, the car security system like EWS or immobilizer, keys and ignition switch. Upon attaching a used ECU with your car it will effectively change the VIN of the car. The VIN might not have the proper programming depending upon the transmission type of the car and hence cause unwanted car troubles.
    
3. Additionally, the coding could be different and pose problems in case you have to emission requirements in your state.
    
4. Another thing to consider is that the used ECU set comes with a key that will no longer fit in the ignition switch of the car, hence you need to spend extra money and time to change the ignition car. Furthermore, the door locks of the car would need replacement as well.
    
5. Most importantly if you ever lose the keys of the used ECU, you can no longer ask the dealership for new keys because you do not own the registration of this other computer set VIN.  
    

Important! Whenever there is any kind of trouble in your car, you can give us a call and we will provide you with the best possible solution or option.

This process provides certain tips on how to ship the damaged ECU properly. Let’s take a look at these simple instructions that can aid in expediting the diagnosing and fixing process of the ECU and help get your car back on the road in the shortest possible time span.

1. First of all use a clean, simple and compact packaging, bubble wrap, foam paper, etc. must be used.
    
2. In case you need to send extra parts like clips, eprom memories, etc., please attach to the ECU with masking tape.
    

Caution: Specialized ECU Repair will not be responsible for extra parts lost during shipping or for extra parts not declared on the Repair and Return Form.

3. Include a copy of ECU Repair Form from the website, which must include basic information like address and telephone number.
    
4. Essential information like transmission type and VIN number must also be included.
    
5. A clear explanation of the issue with the car and how to replicate the issue. For instance, does the car gives trouble while it is hot or cold, etc.? This information will help us in accurate and quick diagnostics of the ECU.
    
6. Entire computer set, key, EWS or Immobilizer, and ECU must be sent and it is imperative for all cars manufactured after 1999 as they use security systems.
    

Highly Recommended Check and verify from our website, which controls modules we require from the car to service the unit If you follow all the instructions properly, the diagnostic and fixing process of ECU will go smooth, otherwise, the technicians would need to wait for parts or other important information to carry out their work.

This process explains how to remove the CAS module from your BMW. To remove the CAS module:

1. The CAS module is either a black or white box and always has CAS written on it.
    
2. It is located under the steering, behind a plastic cover. You just need to remove a couple of screws and CAS module can be taken out.
    

Remember In case you need to send your computer, always send it with the DME, CAS and one of the car keys.

This process explains how to turn off the alarm if it goes off on your Porsche 993 in case your remote set is malfunctioning or you do not have any. This little trick will work on most 993’s if the feature is programmed on their computer. To disable the alarm:

Once the alarm goes off due to an error or problem, simply put the key in the driver's side door, turn it to the left and hold it there for a few seconds. The alarm will hopefully turn off. 

This process explains how to program a remote fob for keyless entry into a 1997 Porsche Boxster. This feature can be programmed but it depends on certain conditions. In 1997, when Boxster was being manufactured they came with very basic and limited features. There are 3 ways that can tell you if the key can be programmed or not:

1. In case your car key is simple and has no remote or chip in it then it cannot be programmed for keyless entry.
    
2. If you can get to the immobilizer of the car and it says M531 then this generation does not have an antenna to receive signals from the remote.
    
3. Call the dealership with your VIN number and ask them to sell you a remote for your car. If they say there is no such remote available then you cannot program keyless entry for your car.  
    

Note In case the immobilizer says something else than M531, then you can send us your complete computer set and we can program the new remote and keys for your car. Everything we deliver is properly tested and in plug and play condition.

This process explains if a customer that owns a Boxster from 2003 can add a 996 3.6 liter engine into their car. The answer yes it is possible and should be done with a lot of care. To do so:
 

We highly recommend that you also bring the ECU from that 996 and the engine harnesses because the cars are from completely different generations, with varying features, ECU numbers, programming, features, additional wiring, and sensors, etc.
 

We can still reuse the immobilizer and key fobs from the 2003 Boxster and bind these with the 996 engine.
 

Normally, when you do engine swaps they go well but sometimes ECU is not properly calibrated with the engine. We can easily remap the ECU and the engine for optimum performance of the car.

Follow this procedure to adjust the idle speed in your 911 Carrera. If your idle speed is a bit higher than normal, it may need to be adjusted down, if it “hunts” on start-up or is higher than 900 rpm at normal running temperature. This can also happen on an 1987 Carreras if the original chip is #1267355236.

 

To reduce the base idle speed if necessary to 880 rpm, adjust the idle speed screw on the throttle body by two or three turns clockwise. The screw may be covered with a yellow plastic cap, which will need to be removed.

 

For a more exact adjustment, use a wire to bridge B and C in the rubber test socket on the left side of the engine compartment, located behind the black removable cover, and adjust the idle speed to 880 rpm at normal running temperature.

 

Properly adjusted, there should be no difference in idle speed with the jumper or without. Remove jumper when finished.

 

 

have sent you a “blank” BMW DME already programmed to your specific vehicle.

 

This unit needs to be synchronized with your car’s EWS anti-theft system in order to work.

 

To synchronize the blank DME to your car, you’ll need a BMW Compatible scanner which has the function to “Align” or “Synchronize” our DME to your EWS. Below is a list of the most popular BMW scanners that we know for sure, have the function to do this procedure.

 

• ISTA
• GT1 / DIS
• Autologic
• Launch X-431
• INPA
• PA Soft

 

There might be other BMW compatible scanners, but you will have to check with the manufacturer if they have the function to synchronize the DME to the EWS.

 

Every scanner has different steps that you need to follow in order to do the alignment. However, in general, this is how it is done:

 

1. Make sure that your car’s battery is fully charged. (This is important because the voltage cannot drop below 12 Volts during the synchronization.)
    
2. Connect the scanner to the car either through the OBD2 port or, if the car has a Round Plug connector under the hood, use that one.
    
3. DO NOT start the car, but turn the key to the ON position.
    
4. Follow the steps in the scanner to select the model and year of your car.
    
5. Then go to DME or ECU. (This is usually the section where you check for fault codes.)
    
6. There should be an option available for “DME-EWS alignment” or “synchronization” or “calibration”.
    
7. After you go through that process you have to turn the key to the OFF position for at least 25 seconds.
    
8. Then start the car.

 

When you are finished synchronizing the DME to your car, it is very important to delete all the fault codes and reset all the adaptations in the DME. Otherwise, you may get an incorrect fault codes or a check engine light.

We buy Porsche, BMW and Ferrari ECU Cores.

 

Usually we pay for these anywhere between $30 to $150 depending on the condition.

 

For example older units with corrosion are not worth as much as newer units in good shape.

 

If you have used DME ECU cores we can send you a shipping label for us to inspect the units.

 

You can otherwise send us picture of the control units to this number 786-837-5882.

 

We need to see the computer part number and circuit board to determine its condition.

 

Afterwards we contact you with a breakdown of what we can offer for each unit and pay you immediately.

 

If you want to send us the units yourself, send them to our shipping address here:

 

941 NE 48 St.
Oakland Park, FL 33334

Most "non-starting" symptoms in Porsche 911 and 944 can be attributed to a defective DME Relay.

 

The Porsche DME relay contains 2 relays inside its housing.

 

The 1st relay provides power to the DME.

 

In the 944 Turbo, the primary relay powers the KLR ignition unit.

 

The 2nd relay provides power to the fuel pump.

 

This might be caused by broken solder joint inside the relay. This is why if you let the car sit for awhile, after the relay cools down, the car will restart.

 

One option that you have, if you do not want to buy another DME Relay, is to reflow ALL the solder points on the board of the relay.

 

This solution might cure an intermittent starting issue with your Porsche 993, 964, 944 and 911.

 

If you wish to buy a new DME relay 993 615 227 01 you can get the best selling one on Amazon Prime here.

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Your Porsche's ECU makes the engine run based off of the information that the sensors, inputs and outputs provide.

 

Whether it is a "crank, no start" condition or simply that the car shuts down after it warms up - you'll probably find the reason why here.

 

This guide is perfect to troubleshoot those hard-to-diagnose issues in your Porsche.

 

Use and download this detailed PDF guide to further diagnose your Porsche 911 3.2 Carrera or 944 ECU DME that have a with a 35 Pin Connector - usually between the years 1982-1989.

 

Porsche 911 3.2 Carrera or 944 ECU DME with a 35 Pin Connector (PDF)

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Before we begin, it's good that you learn some background information as to what the RPM and TDC sensor do in the car.

The crankshaft reference sensor provide the DME with the timing and position signals of the engine's flywheel for correct functioning and performance.

 

In Motronic systems, once the crankshaft starts to spin, the DME will pick up the reference signals and will trigger systems like the DME relay, the fuel pump activation, timing and injection.

 

If this signal is missing, or inadequate, it can generate a non-starting condition and also drivability or performance problems.

 

This tutorial will teach you how to check these sensors and to try to diagnose them correctly.

 

If you need to replace the 2 sensors, you can (Buy Them Here - # 0261210002)

***These are basic testing procedures that can be carried out with a Multi-Meter. More extensive testing must be performed with an oscilloscope.***

You will test the RPM Sensor an the DME harness at Pin #8 & Pin #27 and, the TDC Sensor are at Pin #25 & Pin #26.

 

What you will test with the Multi-Meter is that both the RPM and TDC sensors output an average of about 1,000 Ohms.

 

 

Below are some pictures on how to do this...

 

 

Your questions are very important to us. We aim to answer within 2 hours weekdays between 10am-4pm EST.

 

In the meantime, you can browse for quick answers AND videos in our ECU Knowledge Base right here.

 

For example:

• Repair Cost: How much is it to get my ECU repaired?

• No communication with the scanner

• Programming: Do I need to "Reprogram" my ECU after you repair it?

 

ALSO if you need to, you can SMS text us here: 954-280-1253

PROBLEM	POSSIBLE CAUSES	SOLUTIONS & TEST POINTS
	Dead battery, very low charge, or bad battery contacts.	Check the battery charge. If low, recharge it or replace it. Also, clean the battery connections.
	Blown fuse.	Check all fuses that power the ECU, Alarm or Immobilizer system. Sometimes, there are 3 to 5 fuses to check.
	Bad starter relay.	Check that the starter relay is working properly.
	Seized starter motor, or not working properly.	Try powering the starter motor directly to test if it can crank the engine.
	Faulty ignition switch.	Ensure that all contact points on the ignition switch are spreading power and ground throughout the car.
	Broken, short-circuited, dirty or corroded Control Unit harness connectors causing bad contacts.	Ensure all the Control Unit harness connectors are not broken or have a short-circuit problem. Also, clean any rust or corrosion. Ensure a tight fit.
	Clutch pedal switch on Manual Transmission cars not engaged or faulty.	Ensure that the clutch pedal switch signal is present when trying to start the car.
	Electronics are missing an additional essential ground point.	Check that all the car's ground points have clean and tight connections, and no short circuits.
	The car’s immobilizer “Drive-Block” is activated (Porsche 993 models).	Disable the "drive-block" system by pressing on the key fob button.
	The alarm or the car might be activated.	See if there is a way to disable or bypass the alarm system.
	The EWS and DMR are not in sync (BMW models after 1995).	With a BMW compatible scanner, perform a DME to EWS alignment/synch.

 

WARNING Some of the testing procedures described in this guide could be dangerous if done improperly. We recommend that they are performed by an ASE certified mechanic

 

DOWNLOAD FULL PDF Click the link to get access to the complete troubleshooting guide: http://bit.ly/34JezNP

PROBLEM	POSSIBLE CAUSES	SOLUTIONS & TEST POINTS
	Empty, or very low fuel tank.	Add some new gas to the tank. Sometimes the fuel gauge doesn't work correctly to show the actual fuel level.
	Fuel is not being delivered correctly.	Monitor constant fuel pressure at the fuel rail. Monitor the injector signal at each cylinder. Also, ensure cylinders are not getting flooded.
	There may be vacuum air leaks in the system.	Make sure that all hoses on the air intake system are securely attached. You can also perform a smoke test to detect any air leaks.
	The airflow or air mass meter is not working correctly.	Try disconnecting the air meter to see if the car is able to stay running without them. This might may indicate you could have a bad air meter. Also, extremely dirty air meters should be replaced
	The Crankshaft Reference Sensor is not working properly.	With a Multimeter test the Crankshaft Reference Sensor (See our YouTube video). Also, sometimes in modern cars, you can use your scan tool to see if your ECU is detecting an RPM signal.
	No compression in the cylinders or the engine.	Perform a compression check on all the cylinders.
	Engine or Distributor timing is off.	Ensure that the timing is correctly set

 

 

WARNING Some of the testing procedures described in this guide could be dangerous if done improperly. We recommend that they are performed by an ASE certified mechanic

 

DOWNLOAD FULL PDF Click the link to get access to the complete troubleshooting guide: http://bit.ly/34JezNP

PROBLEM	POSSIBLE CAUSES	SOLUTIONS & TEST POINTS
	There is an error fault code present in one or more or the Control Modules or the car	Somewhere in the car, an issue remains that has not been diagnosed or remedied. We recommend a factory scanner is used to read all the codes present. Comprehensive and accurate fault code definitions are necessary to correctly follow up on a testing plan.   Alternatively, you can also visit your local Auto Parts Store for a free computer scan. Try researching the fault codes online. Someone may have already come up with the solution for it. Although the information on the internet is not always reliable, it might help to give you some ideas on how to follow up on the fault.   Always make copies or the fault code list to compare the “before vs. after” results.

 

 

WARNING Some of the testing procedures described in this guide could be dangerous if done improperly. We recommend that they are performed by an ASE certified mechanic

 

DOWNLOAD FULL PDF Click the link to get access to the complete troubleshooting guide: http://bit.ly/34JezNP

PROBLEM	POSSIBLE CAUSES	SOLUTIONS & TEST POINTS
	The car's battery may be low or dead	Connect a better charger to see if you can get communication to any of the Control Modules
	There is no power or voltage to the Control Units or the Scanner.	Ensure the Ignition Switch key is in the on position; otherwise, the entire system might not get the voltage it needs to communicate.
	Broken, short-circuited, dirty or corroded Control Unit harness connectors causing bad contacts.	A factory scanner dedicated to the car brand is always recommended.
	The scanner is not compatible or does not have the correct communication protocol to talk to the Control Units	A factory scanner dedicated to the car brand is On BMWs from 1995-2001 you have to scan through the Round 20 Pin connector under the hood, if there isn't one, connect through the regular OBD2 under the dash. It’s always recommended.
	Are you using the correct diagnostic connector? (BMW Only)	On BMWs from 1995-2001, you have to scan through the Round 20 Pin connector under the hood, if there isn't one, connect through the regular OBD2 under the dash.
	Are there other damaged electronic modules in the car?	If you have other electronic issues, such as a bad ABS, TCM, or Air Bag modules, it can break the communication line. Try disconnecting one module at a time, and re-test for scanner communication.
	The car's Immobilizer "Drive-Block" is activated (Porsche 993 models)	Disable the "drive-block" system by pressing on the key fob button. This will enable communication to the DME (See our YouTube video).

 

 

WARNING Some of the testing procedures described in this guide could be dangerous if done improperly. We recommend that they are performed by an ASE certified mechanic

 

DOWNLOAD FULL PDF Click the link to get access to the complete troubleshooting guide: http://bit.ly/34JezNP

PROBLEM	POSSIBLE CAUSES	SOLUTIONS & TEST POINTS
	A spark plug, coil or coil pack may not be working.	Switch the spark plug, coils or coil packs between cylinders and check if the misfi­re follows the suspicious component. Coil packs tend to go bad, especially on BMWs, and they need to be replaced.
	One or more injectors are not working	Check the injectors while cranking to see if they are working with a noid light. You can also switch injectors between cylinders and check if the misfi­re follows the suspicious injector
	Broken, short-circuited, dirty or corroded Control Unit harness connectors causing bad contacts.	Ensure all the Control Unit harness connectors are not broken or have a short-circuit problem. Also, clean any rust or corrosion. Ensure tight fi­t.
	No compression in the cylinders of the engine	Perform a compression check on all the cylinders.
	Engine or Distributor timing is off	Ensure that the timing is correctly set.

 

WARNING Some of the testing procedures described in this guide could be dangerous if done improperly. We recommend that they are performed by an ASE certified mechanic

 

DOWNLOAD FULL PDF Click the link to get access to the complete troubleshooting guide: http://bit.ly/34JezNP

PROBLEM	POSSIBLE CAUSES	SOLUTIONS & TEST POINTS
	O2 Sensors may not be working properly.	Try disconnecting the O2 sensors while the car is running to see if you notice an improvement. Ensure these sensors are the correct part number for the car
	The Throttle Body could have problems or its own, it not properly "adapted", or it is the wrong one for the car.	In modern cars, you need to perform a Throttle Body adaptation procedure. You should also ensure that the Throttle body is the correct part number for that car. Make sure that the throttle Body opens up when the accelerator pedal is pressed.
	The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor could be bad.	Make sure that the Throttle Body opens up when the accelerator pedal is pressed.
	There may be vacuum air leaks in the system.	Make sure that all hoses on the air intake system are securely attached. You can also perform a smoke test to detect any air leaks.
	The airflow or air mass meter is not working correctly.	Try disconnecting these air meters to see if the car is able to stay running without them. This might may indicate you could have a bad air meter. Also, extremely dirty air meters, it should be replaced.
	The exhaust/catalytic converter may be restricted or plugged.	Ensure that the exhaust system is clean so that the car can exhale freely. The catalytic converter has to be working correctly.

 

 

WARNING Some of the testing procedures described in this guide could be dangerous if done improperly. We recommend that they are performed by an ASE certified mechanic

 

DOWNLOAD FULL PDF Click the link to get access to the complete troubleshooting guide: http://bit.ly/34JezNP

Our experts specialize in repairing ECU’s of numerous car models.

The repair price varies by each car Make, Model and Year.

To check the ECU repair cost for your car:

1. Select your car from the dropdown menu on the website.

2. Now, you will see the control unit that suits your car and the amount we charge for the repair.

Repair costs are only charged after the repair work has been done.

Otherwise, if we find and diagnose your ECU to be working correctly, it is only $95 Testing Fee.

 

This service means that you send the defective ECU to our location. Our experts will do the following:

1. Run diagnostic tests on the unit to check if it can be repaired or not. 
    
2. Fix the faulty ECU as per the diagnostics results. 
    
3. Fix other minor issues that the specific ECU is prone to. 
    
4. And, for customer satisfaction of the repair, we offer a 5-years conditional warranty.
    
5. Finally, we send the ECU back to the customer.

 

To send the ECU for repairs, do the following:

 

1. Fill out the Repair and Return Form on the website. 
    

On the form, briefly explain the actual problem with your car and in which situations is the car giving trouble whether in hot state or cold. In some cases, the customer needs to send the keys of the car, the security module/immobilizer along with the ECU because we might need to test these as a whole component.

 

2. Access your email and print out the confirmation receipt sent on it. 
    
3. Send the Repair Form along with your ECU to the following address:
   Specialized ECU Repair
   941 NE 48 St
   Oakland Park, FL 33334
    
4. Upon receiving your ECU, our Technician will call you for a follow-up on the required Repairs.
    

The normal turnaround time is 5 days for most cases. In case, we find different or a delay you will be informed or you can always contact us @ (954) 652-1496.

This means that once the ECU is received for repairs the usual turnaround in most cases is 5 days.

Please call us @ (954) 652-1496 for any questions. 

This means that once the ECU is received

1. We run multiple diagnostics on it. 
2. If we find that the ECU is in a good working state then we only charge $95 for the Testing of the core.

 

For further assistance, we have expert technicians available that can help in diagnosing the problem in your car.

This means that the work we perform on your ECU ensures the following:

1. Complete safety of your ECU. 
2. The relationship between the ECU, security module and or keys remains intact and not tampered with at all. 
3. All the ECU’s we repair are completely Plug and Play as we only manipulate the Hardware and do not manipulate its software programming. 

Once we receive the ECU for repairs

1. We run ECU specific diagnostics tests on it to check the severity of the damage
2. If the water damage is found to be minimal, the ECU is repairable. 
3. In case the water damage is heavy, we suggest the customer to replace the ECU with another unit from our stock. 

We run comprehensive diagnostics to test the ECU and try our level best to repair it. But, in certain cases the ECU damage is beyond repair. Don’t you worry! Our expert Technician will give you a call to suggest either a new replacement or a reprogramming of another ECU to match your car.

This service tells about the delivery time and cost of international shipping. 

 

For international shipments, our usual choice is UPS Express (Saver). Its delivery time is 5-Days for a nominal cost of $80 – 120$ depending upon the international location. We highly trust and recommend UPS as it easily gets through customs and delivers on time. 

 For International Exchange shipments, an addition $100 Core is included in the shipping charges, which will be added to the initial core charge deposit. Once we receive the ECU core back, the original core charge plus the additional $100 core charge will be refunded to the customer.

This means that our warranty covers all ECU repairs for 5 years from the original purchase date mentioned on the Sales Invoice. On exchanges, the 5-Year Warranty begins from the day on which we receive your old unit at our location.

The following terms apply on 5-years Warranty

1. Our warranty does not cover any damage to the repaired or exchanged ECU, which results from improper installation, accident, collision, abuse, misuse, natural disaster, insufficient or excessive electrical supply, abnormal mechanical or environmental conditions, or any unauthorized disassembly, repair, or modification.
    
2. If any security seals are tampered with, the warranty will be canceled. Contact us before you open the ECU in the case that you want to install a performance chip.
    
3. ECU Doctors is not responsible if a car's warranty with the manufacturer is voided by using replacement parts supplied by us.
    

The warranty will not be awarded without a copy of the Sales Invoice and Warranty Form. The Warranty is non-transferable if the car is sold to another person.

This service highlights all the major points of our refund/return policy. 

1. Testing, Programming and Shipping Fees are Non-Refundable.
    
2. On Repairs or Exchanges, no refunds will be issued unless we have exhausted all the possibilities to resolve the problem or warranty matter through a repair, or replacement.
    

It is the responsibility of the owner to consult with us about any problems or warranty issues, before going to a third party for a diagnosis or a resolution.

 

3. Exchanged units can be returned to receive a refund minus a 35% Re-stocking fee within 10 business days of receiving the unit.
    
4. Repaired ECU's can be refunded 100%.
    

Refund Approved! What happens on Refund Approval? If we approve a refund, please allow up to 5 business days for us to process the refund and return your money.

This service means that we will send our customers a rebuilt ECU from our stock in exchange for their existing faulty ECU core.

 

To exchange an ECU core, do the following:

 

1. Find on the website the exact ECU core that fits your car by selecting the make, model and year. 
    
2. Now, you place the order for exchanging the core.
    

Upon order placement, we collect an initial deposit which is known as Core Charge. We collect this to ensure that the customer will return to us a rebuildable core.

 

3. We ship a completely programmed and Plug and Play core to the customer. You can put it in the car and it will start the car without any trouble or additional programming. 

 

In case there is any problem with the received ECU; you will be informed what to do about it at the time of purchase.

 

4. After receiving the rebuilt ECU, the customer needs to send back the faulty core to us. Upon receiving, we will immediately refund the Core Charge we collected at the time of purchase. 

Core Charge Refund Policies

• Return the ECU core within 5 days of rebuilt core receive date to receive the core charge 
   
• Additional charges and canceled warranty will be subjected in case you do not return the old ECU core within 5 days of receiving your new rebuilt ECU.
   
• Irreparable ECU’s due to water, fire or manipulation of any sort, might receive a partial or no refund at all. 

 

All our exchanged cores come with a 5-year conditional warranty.

This service means that we will properly fix, reprogram and test the water damaged immobilizer of a Porsche 911 or Boxster manufactured between the years 1997 and 2005. 

How to send us the immobilizer for repair:

1. The immobilizer is located right under the driver seat on the floor of the said cars. 
2. When it gets water damaged, the circuit board inside gets corroded and damaged, which can result in loss of many important functions like power windows, remote control, and in extreme cases, the car may not even start. 
3. Send us the ECU, Immobilizer and the Key, we will perform the replacement of immobilizer, reprogram it properly harmonize it with the remote and the engine computer. 
4. Finally, we will do a comprehensive car test to ensure everything is in 100% working condition.

 

A 5 years warranty comes with the fixed immobilizer. We highly recommend that you buy our Water Proof Cases to add an extra layer of protection for your immobilizer.